Balwoo Gongyang

Cosmopolitan Temple Cuisine at Balwoo Gongyang

by Daniel Gray

Master Dae Ahn, the chef, monk and teacher behind the Jogeysa Temple Cuisine movement explained, “the mind and disposition of the chef affects the quality of the dish and how it will be received by the guest. It all starts from sourcing the food from farmers, delivery, and then preparation. The process should not cause any ill will or conflict in any way. If this is all done mindfully, the guest will experience food that is nourishing as well as delicious. “

Her philosophy doesn’t sound very different from food philosophers, chefs, and pundits advocating sustainability, locally grown, and organic food.

Balwoo Gongyang

Balwoo Gongyang, the flagship restaurant run by the Jogyesa Temple Order of Monks, sources the best locally grown, seasonal produce- some of which are grown at their own temples. Almost everything- including their kimchi is made on site.

The food here is prepared under the watchful eye of Master Dae Ahn and her team of chefs that prepare the food for the guests. The meals at Balwoo Gongyang are by course only and range from 25,000 to 53,000 won per person. At each different course, the number of dishes and the quality of the produce increase. Keep in mind that these restaurants are not for profit so the costs cover rent, food costs, and salaries.

The highlights of 15 dish, “Enlightenment” course (53,000 won) include a crunchy, light, potato noodles in a green pea stock. Their deodeok salad is crisp and the dressing is refreshing like mild horseradish. I am addicted to their shitake mushroom crisps that have a spicy/sweet sauce which I think is even better than Korean fried chicken.

Jirisan Ginseng

At times, Balwoo lets the ingredients stand on their own- for example their 4-year-old Jiri Mountain ginseng. This treasured tuber, still connected from the leaf it was grown has a unique, bitter quality but this is softened when dipped in the citron sauce.

Other times, they play around with the concepts of what is meat. Their bean beef looks and has the texture of sirloin steak. This meat is wrapped in pickled myeongyi leaf and topped with the most delightfully crisp chips made from chestnuts.

Lotus

The dishes that stick out in my mind were the mushroom soup and the stuffed lotus. The mushroom soup had a walnut and ginko nut floating in its consumme-like broth. The mushrooms had a texture like noodles and the lightness of the broth triggered a sense of awakening. This was paired with a pine-tree extract juice. The presentation of the lotus dish is intriguing. A whole lotus flower with the still sprouting “eyes,” was the plate and on it were crisp lotus roots that were stuffed with different colored rice.

My only complaint about this restaurant is the service. At times I felt rushed when I wanted to savor the tastes of dishes that chefs obviously spent time making. But it is understandable since the restaurant is booked almost everyday. Reservations recommended.

Overall, Balwoo Gongyang is one of my favorite restaurants in Seoul. The techniques and seasonal ingredients always surprise me. I always leave the restaurant feeling like I have done something good for myself and for others.

Balwoo Gongyang

Ph: 02-2031-2081
Website: http://www.baru.or.kr
5^th Floor 71 Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-170
Directions: Near Anguk and Jonggak Stations, across from the big Jogyesa Temple in the Temple Stay Building, 5th floor.

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