Hyojadong Old-Fashioned Tteokbokki at Tongin Market
Hyojadong Old-Fashioned Tteokbokki are not drowned in a slurpy spicy-sweet sauce. Instead, chewy fingers of rice cake are either dry rubbed with red pepper flakes and then then pan fried over high heat or it is basted in soy sauce and then pan fried as well. They are crispy on the outside and chewy in the middle like a deep fried Mars bar.
The only other things on the menu are soondae (blood sausage), pork pancakes, and Nokdu Bindaetteok (a pan-fried bean pancake). The lady running the place is a sweetheart, so be nice to her. She often gets busy during the daytime, so you might have to wait a bit. Trust me, it's worth it.
Inside Tongin Market
Take exit 2 from Gyeongbokgung Station on Line 3, and walk straight about 10 minutes. Tongin Market will be on your left.
Open late; we were there after 9 p.m.