For many of my guests from abroad, naengmyeon (냉면) is one of Korea’s most puzzling dishes. Cold noodles in an icy, fermented radish broth? Served with vinegar and mustard? And to top it off, you’re handed a pair of scissors and told to cut the noodles or risk an endless chew. It’s not exactly intuitive. But once you get past the surprise, naengmyeon reveals itself as one of the most refreshing, complex, and culturally rooted dishes in Korean cuisine.
Born From Necessity
Naengmyeon started as a survival food in Korea’s cold northern regions—where winters were long and wheat was difficult to grow. Instead of wheat flour, people used buckwheat, which isn’t actually wheat at all but a seed.
They ground it into flour using stone mills, mixed it with starch (often potato or arrowroot), and pressed it straight into boiling water using a noodle press. After just a minute of cooking, the noodles were quickly shocked in cold water to preserve their texture. The result? A chewy, delicate noodle that’s unlike anything else.
The Regional Divide: Pyeongyang vs. Hamheung
There are two major styles of naengmyeon, each with a fiercely loyal following.
Pyeongyang Naengmyeon (평양냉면) is made with mostly buckwheat flour, giving the noodles a softer, more delicate texture and a light floral flavor. The broth is usually dongchimi (동치미)—a clear, chilled radish water kimchi that’s slightly tangy and incredibly clean. This version is mild, subtle, and deeply traditional. It’s the kind of dish you appreciate more with each bite.
Then there’s Hamheung Naengmyeon (함흥냉면), the spicy cousin with a kick. These noodles are made with more potato starch, which gives them a firmer, chewier texture. They’re typically served bibim-style—tossed in a bold, spicy chili paste and topped with fermented fish. This is the version you’ll find in Seoul’s Ojangdong neighborhood, where families from northern Sokcho brought their recipe after the Korean War.
Best place for Pyeongyang Naengmyeon
Woo Lae Oak: They boast a deep taste in both Pyeongyang naengmyeon and bibim naengmyeon, and in particular, the seasoning of bibim naengmyeon and the harmony of noodles are excellent.
Warm noodles are suitable for cold weather due to the combination of buckwheat noodles in warm broth, and kimchi rolled naengmyeon is also popular.
Expect a wait time of 30 minutes.
Open Hours: 11:30-21:00
Best place for Hamheung Naengmyeon
Ojangdong Hamheung Naengmyeon: This is a place where you can taste both raw and cold noodles, especially the combination of the chewy noodles and the sour raw fish salad of raw fish naengmyeon.
Suyuk has a soft texture and is good to eat with cold noodles, and dumplings are big and filling.
Open Hours: 11:00-20:00
A Winter Dish in a Summer World
While it’s often thought of as a summer dish today, naengmyeon was traditionally eaten in winter. That’s right—cold noodles in a cold broth, enjoyed while sitting on warm ondol floors in the heart of winter. Why? Because ingredients like radish and cabbage were fermented in the cold, and the icy broth provided a bracing contrast to the heat indoors. These days, though, nothing hits the spot quite like naengmyeon on a humid July afternoon.
My Personal Favorite: Chuncheon Makguksu
If I had to pick a favorite regional style, I’d go with Chuncheon’s makguksu (막국수). The noodles are softer, with a pronounced buckwheat aroma, and they’re usually served with a spicy, nutty sauce made from gochujang and vinegar. It’s earthy, refreshing, and surprisingly hearty.
And yes—I do love hoe naengmyeon (회냉면), too. It’s fiery, tangy, chewy, and topped with thin slices of fermented skate or pollock. It’s not for everyone, but if you love bold flavors, this one might just convert you.
Final Thoughts
Naengmyeon isn’t just food—it’s a cultural puzzle, a seasonal contradiction, and a historical survival story all in one bowl. Whether you’re slurping it slowly in a quiet Pyongyang-style restaurant or digging into a fiery bowl of bibim naengmyeon on a plastic stool in Ojangdong, one thing is certain: this dish leaves an impression.
Just don’t forget to use the scissors.
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