The first time I tried Patbingsu (팥빙수) in Korea, I made the rookie mistake of approaching it like a Western dessert. With its colorful array of fruit, mochi, syrups, and that iconic mound of red bean paste, it looked like a floral arrangement in a bowl. I started eating it delicately, one topping at a time. That’s when the cafe ajumma stepped in. She took my spoon, gave me a smile, and said, "No, no, no," before vigorously mixing everything into a sweet, icy swirl of flavors. Lesson learned: Patbingsu is meant to be enjoyed all at once—a beautiful chaos of texture and taste.
A Royal History of Ice
Patbingsu has surprisingly elite roots. Back during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897), a government office known as Seobingo (서빙고) was in charge of storing and distributing ice.
Without modern refrigeration, ice was stored underground in royal iceboxes and was a rare luxury. On hot days, officials would mix finely crushed ice with fruits, creating an early version of this frozen treat—more granita than dessert, but no less satisfying.
Ice, Summer, and Survival: A Short History of Korean Ice Culture
Korea is a land of four distinct seasons. While that means spring flowers, summer heat, autumn leaves, and winter snow, it also meant hardship for people in the past—especially when the summer heat followed right on the heels of a bitter winter. Between freezing temperatures and sweltering humidity, life was tough. And of the two extremes, winter was feared more. People rarely died from heat, but freezing to death was sadly common.
Back then, there were a few tricks to stay cool—lighter clothes, paper fans, dipping into rivers—but there wasn’t much you could do to actually lower the temperature. That’s why ice was such a precious gift. In fact, it was one of the few things that brought real relief during Korea’s blistering summers.
The Ice Vaults of Yongsan: Dongbinggo and Seobinggo
Today, ice is everywhere—anytime, anywhere. But before the invention of the ice machine in 1880, it had to be harvested during winter and stored carefully for summer use. This practice, called jangbing (장빙) or "ice storage," was so important that Korea had government-run ice warehouses, with the most famous ones located in present-day Yongsan: Dongbinggo (동빙고) and Seobinggo (서빙고).
The history of Korean ice storage goes back as far as the Three Kingdoms period. According to the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), King Jijeung of Silla ordered officials to collect and store ice as early as 505 AD. Records even show that ice was used in summer to keep food cool, much like early refrigerators. Just like in ancient China, Koreans used ice to chill ceremonial alcohol or preserve bodies during funerals.
Royal Ice for Summer Relief
In the Goryeo Dynasty, ice was harvested and distributed throughout the summer months. From early May to August, high-ranking officials received ice deliveries every seven days—an elite perk. Naturally, the royal family had their own supply as well. Most of the ice during this time likely came from the Yesong River near the capital in Gaegyeong.
Under the Joseon Dynasty, ice storage became even more organized. The government set up Dongbinggo and Seobinggo along the Han River. Dongbinggo’s ice was reserved for state ceremonies and rituals, while Seobinggo’s stock was distributed to high-ranking officials and used for the elderly, the sick, and others in need during hot spells. The royal palace even had two exclusive Naebinggo (내빙고), or private royal icehouses.
Where Were These Icehouses?
Dongbinggo was originally located in today’s Oksu-dong (formerly Dumopo in Seongdong-gu), but in 1504, King Yeonsangun designated that area as a hunting ground, so the icehouse was moved to the current Dongbinggo-dong in Yongsan. Seobinggo, on the other hand, has always been nestled at the foot of Dunjisan Mountain in Yongsan’s Seobinggo-dong—right where Seobinggo Station (Line Gyeongui–Jungang Line) is today. You can even find a marker labeled "Site of Seobinggo" near Exit 1 of the station.
Among all these icehouses, Seobinggo was the largest, especially by the late 1600s. Historical records from 1680 (King Sukjong's reign) note that Seobinggo held about 70% of all the ice stored for state use.
When Ice Became for Everyone
As the cost of ice dropped and refrigeration technology became more accessible, Patbingsu trickled down to the masses.
It transformed into a popular street food topped with sweetened red beans (Patt - 팥), condensed milk, fruit cocktail, and sometimes chewy rice cake (Tteok - 떡). It was affordable, refreshing, and easy to find at street stalls and cafes.
The Bakery That Changed Everything
Modern Patbingsu culture arguably began in Jangchung-dong at a now-famous bakery known for its ice cream sandwiches and iconic bingsu called 'Taegeukdang Bakery'. Their version included crunchy shaved ice soaked in milk, heaps of red bean, canned fruit cocktail, mochi, and the unforgettable addition of corn flakes.
That last ingredient might raise eyebrows, but it adds an addictive crunch that balances the smooth and syrupy textures.
Open Hours: 08:00-21:00
Patbingsu Evolves
Today, Patbingsu has evolved into a canvas for culinary creativity. You'll find variations made with green tea, espresso, wine, watermelon, and even cheese.
One popular "retro-style" Patbingsu features roasted soybean powder, red beans, milk, and chewy rice cake—though ironically, this so-called "old-school" version is a fairly modern reinterpretation of the original dish.
Luxury Patbingsu: The Hotel Upgrade
Some of the most luxurious bingsu experiences today can be found in upscale hotels. Think mango bingsu with fresh golden cubes, peach slices arranged like petals, and red bean paste made in-house.
It's not just about the dessert—it’s the ambiance, the premium ingredients, and the elegant plating that make these versions unforgettable.
Final Thoughts
Patbingsu is more than just a dessert; it's a cultural ritual of summer. Whether you’re sitting in a traditional bakery in Jangchung-dong or lounging in a luxury hotel lounge, this iconic Korean treat connects generations through its mix of nostalgia, creativity, and pure refreshment. Just remember—don’t eat it piece by piece. Mix it up, and dig in.
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