This is the article that appears in Eloquence Magazine this month on Vegetarians in Seoul.
Dan
By Daniel Gray with special thanks to Amy Bowler and Kenneth Holman
Photos by Daniel Gray
Amy Bowler heads the Seoul Veggie Club, which has a very popular Facebook group (type in Seoul Veggie Club) and blog (http://seoulveggieclub.
Dan: So do you find that it is difficult being a vegetarian in Korea?
Amy: Oh, absolutely…I am struggling for words that are polite enough to print. It is very, very frustrating. Kimchi is the ubiquitous side dish and it is sort of the idea of ignorance being bliss. You just never know what you're going to get. This is the sort of country where ham and crab are considered vegetables, so when you ask for vegetable kimbap in perfect Korean and you'll still get ham or crab.
Dan: Right. They never mention that kimchi is made with fish sauce and different recipes call for oyster or shrimp. And what about meat-based broth in many of the dishes?
Amy: Yeah, I ate Naengmyeon happily for two years until I admitted that it had meat in the broth. It's back to that idea of ignorance being bliss.
Dan: So how do Korean people and expatriates react when you tell them you're a vegetarian?
Amy: Oh, with expatriates, its like back home. Some will tolerate it and others will try and challenge you. With Koreans the first question they'll ask is, "Is it because you're religious?" because they associate vegetarianism with Buddhist monks. And when you say it's not, they are a bit mystified. You can tell them it's because of animal rights or environmental issues, but those are not at the forefront of the Korean social consciousness.
Dan: So they don't get it?
Amy: Nope.
Dan: Do you cook at home?
Amy: All the time. Lentils are a good standby. They are cheap, quick, and easy. I made stir fries and curries. Itaewon is a bit of a Vegetarian hotspot because of the foreign groceries.
Dan: And where do you go when you go out?
Amy: Today I went to Dos Tacos in Gangnam which was a special treat. If I am compelled to go to a Korean restaurant, I'll have bibimbap or I'll have Tengjang Chiggae and I'll try not to notice the bits of seafood floating around in the broth. My standards have changed since I've come here. When I arrived if there was a speck of fish or meat on the dish, I couldn't bring myself to eat it, but now I'm more willing to turn a blind eye.
Dan: Do you have any tips for vegetarians?
Amy's Vegetarian-Friendly Recommendations
Purely Decadent
Vegan ice cream in an array of amazing flavours. Non-vegans would be surprised at how creamy and delightful this stuff is. There are seven locations around Seoul, including COEX, Mokdong, Yangjae and Yeongdeungpo.
The Yangjae location is at exit 5 of the subway station.
http://decadent.co.kr/
Dos Tacos
Three locations around Seoul (Gangnam, Apgujeong, Hongdae.) The original location in Gangnam is arguably the best, but the menus in all three places offer veggie-friendly choices including quesadillas, burritos, and nachos. Vegans can easily opt out of the cheese and sour cream toppings. Caution: the potato burrito may make you weep with pleasure. Fountain drinks are refillable, and the casual atmosphere and very reasonable prices often draw a crowd.
Gangnam Station, exit 6, go straight for a few minutes and look out for it on your left, tucked behind a Tous Les Jours bakery. If you pass Kyobo Tower, you've gone too far.
http://dostacos.co.kr/index.
ShinDongyang
Yeouido Station, exit 5, top floor of the building immediately on your right.
http://www.shindongyang.com/
Petras
Noksapeyong Station, Line No. 6, Exit 2. Use the pedestrian overpass to cross the road, turn right and walk up the hill. Petra is about 20 meters along, on the second floor of a red brick building, on the left side of the road. Tel: 019 840-9630.
Everest
The secret is out. This Nepalese-Indian Shangri-La is tricky to find on foot from Dongdaemun station, but that doesn't stop the scores of people who regularly fill the restaurant or spill out onto the street to wait for a table. The food is exquisite, the service is friendly, and the prices are very palatable. There are many Indian restaurants in Seoul and even in Dongdaemun, which serve a decent curry or paneer dish, but this joint is several notches above. Come early, and bring friends!
Dongdaemun Station, Line No. 1&4, Exit 3. Go out the exit and walk straight for 100 meters. Turn left at the pharmacy and walk 50 meters. It's straight ahead, up the stairs.
산 들 바 람 (Sandeulbaram) is a vegetarian buffet near Baekun station in Incheon. Open from 12-2:30; 6-8:30 closed Sunday and holidays. 032-502-0633. Go their website for directions (http://www.organicwind.com)
초록뜰 is a vegetarian calguksu restaurant in Seoul near Hoegi Station. Closed Saturdays (and possibly Friday nights). 2213-1878. Directions: From Exit 2 of Hoegi Station, turn right and walk down the alley past the bedding shop and turn left. You will pass an S-OIL service station and a wedding hall. After walking for a few minutes, cross the street and you should see a road going to the hospital. The restaurant is to the right of the road going to the hospital on the second floor.
Sosim, in Insadong is famous for Buddhist temple food. Closed Sundays. 734-4388. Directions: Go out Anguk station exit 5 and it is in the basement near the GS25.
Sanchon, in Insadong is considered by many to be the best vegetarian restaurant in Seoul. It's a bit pricy. 735-0315.
New Start is a vegetarian buffet restaurant near Seollung Station. They are closed from Friday through Saturday night. 565-4324. Directions: From exit 2 of Seollung Station, walk straight and turn left after Linko. Look for it on the right.
On Sat, Nov 15, 2008 at 12:25 AM, Amy Bowler <surlyduck@gmail.com> wrote:
Pure Decadent
Vegan ice cream in an array of amazing flavours. Non-vegans would be surprised at how creamy and delightful this stuff is. There are seven locations around Seoul, including COEX, Mokdong, Yangjae and Yeongdeungpo.
The Yangjae location is at exit 5 of the subway station.
http://decadent.co.kr/
Dos Tacos
Three locations around Seoul (Gangnam, Apgujeong, Hongdae.) The original location in Gangnam is arguably the best, but the menus in all three places offer veggie-friendly choices including quesadillas, burritos, and nachos. Vegans can easily opt out of the cheese and sour cream toppings. Caution: the potato burrito may make you weep with pleasure. Fountain drinks are refillable, and the casual atmosphere and very reasonable prices often draw a crowd.
Gangnam Station, exit 6, go straight for a few minutes and look out for it on your left, tucked behind a Tous Les Jours bakery. If you pass Kyobo Tower, you've gone too far.
http://dostacos.co.kr/index.htm
ShinDongyang
Right outside Yeouido Station, it's easy to find, and impossible to go wrong when ordering from their vegetarian menu. The choices are plentiful, and the prices range from 6,000 to 70,000 won. You can find meat-free versions of Koreanized Chinese dishes, from the humble jjajangmyeong to a fancy full course meal. The menu doesn't have any English on it, but why not take your tastebuds on an adventure, and point to a random dish? Our club was blown away by the feast, particularly a garlic-mushroom dish that managed to be chewy, crunchy, sweet, sour, spicy,salty, savoury... basically everything you've ever wanted from a food.
Yeouido Station, exit 5, top floor of the building immediately on your right.
http://www.shindongyang.com/
Petras
Treat yourself to the classics, hummus, baba ganoush and falafels, served with fresh pita bread or try a savoury tomato and eggplant dish. The owner will happily cater to large groups, and if you're in the mood for something different, ask for a hookah / hubbly bubbly and finish your meal with a mild, fruity, nicotine-free smoke.
Noksapeyong Station, Line No. 6, Exit 2. Use the pedestrian overpass to cross the road, turn right and walk up the hill. Petra is about 20 meters along, on the second floor of a red brick building, on the left side of the road. Tel: 019 840-9630.
Everest
The secret is out. This Nepalese-Indian Shangri-La is tricky to find on foot from Dongdaemun station, but that doesn't stop the scores of people who regularly fill the restaurant or spill out onto the street to wait for a table. The food is exquisite, the service is friendly, and the prices are very palatable. There are many Indian restaurants in Seoul and even in Dongdaemun which serve a decent curry or paneer dish, but this joint is several notches above. Come early, and bring friends!
Dongdaemun Station, Line No. 1&4, Exit 3. Go out the exit and walk straight for 100 meters. Turn left at the pharmacy and walk 50 meters. It's straight ahead, up the stairs.
I sympathize with vegetarians and vegans in Korea but at the same time, would it kill people to do a little research before they come over here? Not to sound too negative, but the tone of the interview-ee in this piece rubs me the wrong way. It's not Korea's responsibility to cater to her dietary wishes. Sorry if poverty and starvation were rampant here for decades before the economic boom, and that upsets her delicate little world-view as to the way things should be.
ReplyDeleteI've just met far too many ex-pats who have ridiculous expectations coming over here and can't be bothered to do a modicum of research beforehand. There are very specific historical and economic reasons as to why vegetarianism is a strange concept to Koreans, but I guess it's easier for this lady to think of them all as somehow "unenlightened" and therefore inferior. Ugh.
@wetcasements
ReplyDeleteHaving been here fewer than four months, I'm sure you couldn't begin to offer a comprehensive analysis of all the cultural issues involved. Sound familiar?
Who is to say she didn't do any research? I'm betting that 4 years ago, when Amy first came here, there was way less choice that there is now for vegetarians. Also, I have met a few people out here who have said that they used to be a veggie then they came here and they found it too hard, or they got too ill. What bollocks! I am vegetarian who is part of the club and I am glad that Amy and co have got up off their arses and set up this club to help other vegetarians who have left their friends and family behind and flown across the world to facilitate the desperate need to learn English in this country. Far better than those who 'did their research' and thought 'bollocks to that, all these people eat are animals, they can keep their gimbab and shove it up their arses'. We don't want to eat animals that were slaughtered, in pain, tortured, killed, for no other reason than to be tasty in a bun with ketchup. There is no concept to understand. If there were more places which sold tofu dishes (actually cooked, not just chopped and shoved in a bowl with fish guts) I don't think it would ruin the Korean economy, it's hardly expensive.
ReplyDeleteThere are many indian restaurants now in Seoul. There is one near Yonsei Univ. (in one of the lanes in Sinchon), near Korean Univ. (Bina Restaurant), Near Kyonghee Univ (New Delhi restaurant) and so many more on the way to Everest (in Dongmyo).
ReplyDeleteAmy give it up. If you eat ANY parts of dead animals bodies (including broth) you are NOT a vegetarian. Including pieces of seafood or meat floating in the broth. Stop calling yourself a vegetarian. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteso I know this post is from forever ago, but I'm stoked to try Petra's tomorrow night! yay!
ReplyDeleteI spent two years in Korea (03-05), and I agree that it is very challenging for a vegetarian. There are many frustrations. I'm glad that you have this group. I'm sure it helps. Unfortunately, as a matter of survival, you sometimes have to relax your standards a little. New Delhi is a great Indian place in Itaewon. I still miss it!
ReplyDeleteI know this post is really old, but just in case there are any other new vegetarians in Seoul who want to try out Everest ... the directions in the article are not accurate. The restaurant is right outside exit 2 of the Dongdaemun station. Walk up the stairs, look up and to your right, and it is in the second floor of the building. And the food is excellent!
ReplyDeleteThere are two Everest's in Dongdaemum. They're both excellent! Amy's directions go to one, Anonymous above gives directions to the other.
ReplyDelete@wetcasements
ReplyDeleteAwesome comment. It rubbed me the wrong way too.
wow, wetcasements is a real jerk. perhaps that person might want do a little research of their own and find out some more reasons why people become vegetarian. there's nothing wrong with spreading ideas of..oh i don't ethical treatment of animals or saving the environment in a time where modern civilizations don't need to realy eat meat for survival??? thanks for the article though, it's nice to know there are some good options for eating so those who choose this way can enjoy some more varied eating experiences here.
ReplyDeletewhy is wetcasments even bothering to read an article about vegetarians in seoul anyways?
ReplyDelete