by Troy Zitzelberger Some times you just crave some thing spicy and I think that I have finally found it. GOP CHANG BOKKEUM!!! Finally, I have found a spicy dish that can make my mouth feel like a kiln. Of course, I’m still searching for the fare that can take it up to the incinerator level, but this will do for now. Gop- chang bokkeum (₩ 24,000) is a spicy stew made from intestines, soondae (intestines stuffed with noodles or rice and pig's blood), various veggies (onions, zucchini, and onions), vermicelli noodles and chili peppers all fried together in a large wok right at your table. It was a bit much for my Korean friend to handle. I grinned and let out a devilish chuckle as he attempted to cool his mouth off with water. What he needed was milk, but there was none in sight. So he settled for Makgeolli which, surprisingly, did the trick. For me, this Gop-chang bokkeum was just spicy enough to delay my desire for fire. On the scoville heat scale, I would rate it ...

Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelberger M Burger Itaewon For weeks now I have been searching for a real burger. I have been looking for something juicy and delicious instead of these bland overly sauced burgers that lack bite.  When a new burger joint opens I am always a bit critical, but on a stroll on a glorious Seoul afternoon I stumbled upon M-Burger. It is located where the old Fat Panda Chinese takeout place used to be.  Now you may be wondering; what does the M stand for? Massive, monstrous, mars, miscellaneous, mamacita, or perhaps mashisoyo: honestly, I have no idea. M Burger Itaewon But however you decide to spin it, the burger that I ate was all of those things and more gently placed in a bun: with two wooden spikes holding it together. After sitting down on the veranda, we were greeted by the owner Michael, a kind and ambitious LA native. His menu is creative and exciting. I was particularly drawn to the Juicy Luicy: a burger stuffed with cheese i...

Itaewon Egyptian Sandwiches Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelberger Nestled in the heart of Itaewon, right outside of Spy Club, this is possibly the only food cart in all of Seoul with Egyptian food on the menu. After one of my late nights, having already consumed a burger earlier in the day, I decided to try something new. And as luck would have it, I stumbled upon a late night eatery that I had never seen before. I approached the counter interested in what exactly an “Egyptian Sandwich” consisted of. It turns out that it’s pretty much a doner on a roll. There was chicken, beef, vegetable and lamb to please my heart’s desire. Sitting behind the grill was a very humble and friendly Egyptian man, Ali. The smile on his face may have been attributed to the fact that he was busy; all the seats were taken. I ordered the Egyptian lamb and sandwich and I was happy to see it came fully loaded. The meat was piled high and mixed with onions and ...

Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelsberger Ankara Picnic The first few times I walked by Ankara Picnic, I might have well have been blind. The size of this restaurant gives a whole new meaning to the term hole in the wall. If not for the long line I never would have known of its existence. There are only 6 stools so it’s basically standing room only, a Turkish flag on the wall, and the counter.   I found the simplicity of the establishment a relief; in my mind it means the focus is where it should be, on the food. At this point on my journey to find Kebab stardom, I have tried most of the establishments so my taste buds know what they are seeking: and I am happy to say they finally found it here.  The only thing more simple then the décor is the menu; chicken kebab (₩ 4,000), lamb kebab (₩4,000), or mixed (₩ 5,000). The price is right, so how about the food. I ordered one of each. The first thing I noticed was that this is the only kebab establishment tha...

Ashley Cheesemen of Grand Hilton's Oktoberfest Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelsberger OKTOBERFEST!!! Grand Hilton Seoul September 23rd & the 24th. “Ein, zwei, zuffa…,” the Grand Hilton will be satisfying the hearts and livers of Seoulites once again with its annual Oktoberfest celebration. The policy of go big or go home is in full affect this year as the Grand Hilton has decided to go no holds barred. They’re bringing back a blast from the past with all your Deutsch favorites from last year along with some new surprises that will be aiming to please. This past week I was lucky enough to sit down and have a lovely discussion about all things German with the man in charge, the executive assistant manager, Mr. Ashley Cheesemen. Hailing from England and having worked in the restaurant business since he "was a wee lad," Mr. Cheesemen has led a fascinating life. He studied the culinary arts and truly perfected his craft while living in Switzerland. He ...

Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelsberger Petra Palace Having been here for nearly a month now, I’m still considered a newbie. So when I told my kebab fanatic Iranian friend that I am partaking on a quest to find the Kebab Raja of Itaewon he informed me of all the various kebab eateries with the exception of one. How this gem slipped his mind I don’t know since it is now on the top of mine. When it comes to options, Petra Palace has a more extensive menu than any of the other kebab joint’s I have been to thus far. You can get anything from a minced lamb hommos platter (₩ 14,000) to your typical chicken kebab aka chicken schwarma (₩ 5,000). However, in the search for the greatest kebab, Petra has distinguished itself being the only Kebab place in Itaewon that offers falafel (₩ 5,000). These delectable, healthy little balls of joy will satisfy the appetite of both vegetarians and carnivores alike. It is made from chickpeas and/or fava ...

Written and Photographed by Troy Zitzelsberger Mr. Kebab This first time I had doner kebab was, oddly enough, in Berlin.  The large Turkish immigration brought with it what can be considered a new take on fast food.  These swift roll up’s, consisting of either chicken or lamb and various vegetables are a quick, affordable meal.  Meat and vegetables, sounds simple enough, but what makes this sustenance unique is the sauce.  Either a white yoghurt based sauce or a spicy red sauce (for those that can handle the heat.)  To my surprise, there are numerous kebab joints lining the streets of Itaewon.   I have taken it upon myself to try each and every one to find out which is truly, the Kebab Raja. First stop, Mr. Kebab.  Lured in one late night after pool league with my Turkish friend to ensure there would be no language barrier when I attempted to order extra meat, I approached the counter reminiscent of times past.  After my friend order...

Hi folks, I would like to introduce Troy Zitzelsberger to you. He is an unofficial food critic in Seoul (aren't we all) and he is going to contribute from time to time. He is here introducing J-Chili Food Cart in Itaewon. Cheers, Dan  JChili Late night, after hours…Itaewon. As I emerge from the depths of Spy Bar I spot a gleaming beacon of Joy known to all as J Chili. For at the bewitching hour, there is nothing better than a greasy all beef patty fully loaded with whatever strikes your fancy.  I approach the counter like millions before and all that remains is a decision, bacon deluxe or BBQ. I choose both with hot sauce to boot. J Chili  With all the powers of my burger combined: lettuce, onion, tomato, bacon, cheese, BBQ and hot sauce. I am now ready to indulge and indulge I did. It was love at first bite. The reasonably sized all beef patty was juicy, the condiments were flavorful, and the bun held up against my kung fu grip. And now to answer the ...