Seoul Eats: November 2014

The Seoul Eats List of Best Noodles in Korea

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Weiguk Problems: Nostalgia is expensive

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Noryangjin Fish Market and Melon Bingsu

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean,

The Best Thai Restaurants in Seoul

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Food Tours in Korea

Korean Food Truck

Deep Insights into Korean Food

Korean Vegetarian Buddhist Cuisine

Korean Royal Court Cuisine

From 2010-2015, I worked as tour and marketing director for a food company in Korea. I was recently funded to do a start-up tour and events company by a group of Americans and Koreans (iFamily). Our company is focused on offering deep insights and one of a kind experiences. Our food tour service is called Delectable Travels. Find me on our website at www.delectabletravels.com

Right now we are in the development stages but if you would like to inquire about a Korean Food Insights Tour, Ultimate Food Tour, Group Food Tour or other services such as business consulting, please contact me at dnlgray @ gmail dot com for find us on our website at www.delectabletravels.com

Delectable Travels is the startup food tour company which is partnered with iFamily, one of the large wedding and events company in Korea. It is funded via a venture group in America and Korea that believes in the growing popularity in Korean culture and cuisine. The president, Daniel Gray, has years of experience in the tour and video production industry. Before becoming a founding member and the president of Delectable Travels, Mr. Gray was a partner at O'ngo Food Communications from 2010-2015 where he was the head of tours and marketing. He is well known Korean food expert that has worked with or consulted for the OECD, European Union, New York Times, Seoul Tourism, Korea Tourism and The Korean Food Foundation. He has been interviewed, sited or quoted in the New York Times, New York Post, Politiken, Sydney Herald, and others. He has appeared on and helped with the productions of The Kimchi Chronicles, Anthony Bourdain’s Part’s Unknown, Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods, Vice TV’s Munchies, Rachel Hunter’s Tour of Beauty, Vocativ Productions and more. He said the most interesting person he has met on his tour was a certain blond from the movie Swingers (you might know her as Rollergirl from Boogie Nights) because he and his friends idolized her growing up. He also had a chance to meet Mr. Bourdain on a production because he always dreamed of having a drink with the man while reading his books. When he isn’t eating, he writes, makes sure his wife is happy, and works out as much as he can (so he can eat more.)

Dan
Delectable Travels

Daniel Gray with his hero Mr. Bourdain

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Chunshin Poja: Great Chinese Steamed Dumplings in Insadong

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Seoul Eats Favorites Map

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In korean food, story

Korean Food Story: Pork Belly

In Korea, be you young or old, rich or poor, or male or female; the universally adored food is pork belly BBQ with side dishes of kimchi, fresh leaves for wrapping, and a chilled shot of soju to wash it all down.

Many foreign visitors that I have met think that samgyeopsal is just bacon (or rashers in England) and they believe this meat to be very low grade. After all, statistics from the US Food Research and Action Center (FRAC) suggest that people in the lower-income bracket tend to suffer from obesity more often than the rich. I have even seen some foreign guests cut off the fat off pork belly and throw it away. In Korea, this is a definite “No-no.”

 I usually explain to such guests that Korean pork is much different from pork in other countries. The taste, the marbling, the smell, and texture of the meat are all quite different. Plus, the thick cuts of pork belly are neither salt cured nor seasoned. In addition, the pork belly is usually cooked on a cast iron hot plate or a stone grill to make the meat tender and the fat savory and poppy.

Furthermore, this pork belly is not served with a side of sunny side up eggs, toasts with butter and jelly, potatoes, and ketchup. It is served with a fermented bean paste, fresh veggies, and salad and fresh leaves for wrapping. Thus, the samgyeopsal dinner is vastly healthier. On top of that, the clean taste of Korean pork is much tastier than the gamey pork that I have tried in other countries.

 I explain to my foreign friends that Koreans believe eating samgyeopsal occasionally is healthy. This is especially true when the pork belly is eaten with kimchi (the two are a perfect match). Koreans have a belief that the slippery and oily fat from the pork belly is good for removing dust from the lungs. Koreans also frequently eat the dish during the yellow dust season, which fills Korea’s air with the unhealthy fine sand and silt that drifts over from China. The cleansing quality is really more of a superstition though.

 So did Koreans always enjoy samgyeopsal? Actually, no. In the past, the fat was considered by many as being unhealthy and too pungent to eat. The industrious people of the Kaesong area in the northern part of Korea worked hard to change all this. They developed a secret method of raising and feeding new breeds of pigs. The result was pork with improved meat quality. Instead of just having flesh with big chunks of fat, the farmers of Kaesong developed the pork that was well-marbled with delicate layers of fat and meat.

These days, young restaurant entrepreneurs are trying to come with new and exciting variations of pork belly barbecue restaurants. During the 1990s it was popular to cook the pork belly on a metal cauldron like the antique rice cookers in Korean traditional houses. Others started slicing pork belly razor thin and marinated it in sauces. To make healthier versions of the dish, people marinated the pork in green tea or roasted soy bean powder. To make it high-end, it would be marinated in wine, pine needles, or ginseng such as at Palsaek Sam-gyeopsal Restaurant. Aged kimchi grilled with pork belly is a popular pairing so there are kimchi pork belly restaurants as well, such as Samkim. In addition, there are regional specialties. The island of Jeju, for example, is famous for the black pork whose clean and well-marbled fat is one of the reasons for traveling to the tourist island. A famous place to try Jeju black pork in Seoul is Jeju Harubang Dwetgogi in Myeongdong.

 Many of my guests fall in love with samgyeopsal and say they plan on making their own pork belly meal when they get home. Foreigners often think of Korean food as just meat and barbecue but, in my opinion, the samgyeopsal barbecue dinner is an example of a balanced Korean meal. After all, you can’t live on just meat. Plus, the social way of eating makes Korean food fun, delicious, and unique.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In korean food, story

Korean Food Story: Rice

The food that should be on every table in Korea is a bowl of hot rice. Rice is the centerpiece of the meal. Throughout history, the simple bowl of grains has been the driving force behind the economy and the reason for, and the cause of revolutions and social change.

When Korea tried to open up trade agreements to other countries, rice was a battle cry for farmers to protest the agreements. Ultimately, they were able to put restrictions on the amount of foreign imports allowed. Plus it maintained the Korean perception that Korean rice is unique and preferable to other nation’s rice. Korean rice is a short grained rice that is sticky. Korean short grained rice seems stickier and has a poppy bite compared to other nations’ rice that I have tried. It definitely has more bite than a jasmine, basmati, or Chinese long grain rice. I would say it has a chew that is similar to risotto.

The flavor of the rice is bright and with a clean aroma. The rice goes very well with Korean foods such as kimchi and soups like soybean paste stews because of the contrasts in flavor. Koreans like newly harvested and polished rice which is called bekmi. They prefer rice that is picked within the year. If the rice is old, it tends to be mushy and doesn’t have that poppy chew that they prefer. Also, the rice should have a pearly luster. Old rice doesn’t usually have that glow. Listeners, I apologize if I am going to far into detail about rice, but for Koreans it is the most important aspect of the meal. If the rice is not cooked properly or doesn’t taste correct, then diners may never return to a restaurant.

Many have the belief if the rice is good then it is a good indicator for the rest of the food. Good rice means that the restaurant is willing to pay a bit more and to take the time to make good rice. The rice maker is also very important. To create that fresh aroma and the desired pop, many places will use a pressure cooker instead of standard rice cooker. The crispy bits on the bottom of the pot will be eaten as a snack called nurunji. The Nurunji can also be mixed with hot water to make a subtle yet sweet rice porridge. The taste of nurunji is so popular they even make candies with that flavor.

Koreans are always focused on health and these days it is popular for younger people to eat brown rice or hyeonmi. However, some older generation people, like my mother, doesn’t like the taste of brown rice for it reminds them of when they were poor.

If you find a really white rice, it is probably glutinous rice. This rice is often used to make very sticky rice cake or in samgyetang. It is also used in sweet snacks called gangjeong and sauces such as red chili paste or gochujang. Also, the rice is grown on dry land instead of in wet rice patties like regular rice.

Koreans like to mix grains of rice such as adding some black rice, or heukmi, to white rice which will turn it a beautiful purple color. Black Rice was called the King’s Rice for it is very nutritious and rare. It can also be mixed with yellow millet, red rice, beans, barley and more. A special mix of these different grains is called yeongyang sotbap.

Rice is the centerpiece of the meal in Korea so cherish it. Also, Koreans have a belief that you should finish all your rice as a sign of respect to the community farmers that worked so hard to bring it to the table. Oh, and eat Korean rice with a spoon so you can enjoy each full-flavored bite. And one final note, you don’t just eat rice as a meal. That would make you babbo, or a stupid person. You have to eat it with other side dishes, soups, and meats of course.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Food story, korean food

Korean Food Story: Noodles, Noodles (and Mandu)

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Reviews: Who has the Best Kebap in Itaewon?

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Review: Burgers and Taters at Left Coast Burgers

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Review: Decent Indian Food at Indoro in Insadong

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In activities,

Activities: Bau Dog Cafe!

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In business, story

Story: How I became a 35 year old Dishwasher

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In activities, story

Story: Glamping at the Public Pools

Korea, it's hot outside. I mean today it was a toast 27 C degrees (80 F). I was our at one of the public pools by mangwon and I was melting and cooking in the sun. Seriously, I was dying. All I wanted to do was crawl into a freezer and shut the door.

First of all, Korean pools are madhouses. I mean it's like Lord of the Flies out there. Sure it is a public pool but you have to fight for space and respect among the elements. The smart Koreans get there early and they bring their own tents. I mean lots of tents. There are umbrellas there to shade those that aren't into "glamping" however, those with tents will take the umbrellas and use them to shade their shaded tents. You'll see families with a little compound of a large tent with three tents over the tent to keep them from getting burned. Korea, seriously, give the umbrellas that didn't bring tents. Share a little. Don't worry, North Korea is contained. The IMF is passed. Also, those working at the rental shops, rent out umbrellas. Some people don't feel like buying camping tents to go SWIMMING!

And another thing, why must you where a swim cap? Sure it keeps the water clean a bit more but are you telling us that you aren't cleaning the pool regularly? I guess pee, sweat and sun screen (and I mean copious amounts) are ok but not hair? Oh, and if I didn't bring a swim cap, you should charge me 10,000 won for one. It's cool, I will where a baseball cap or how about a hairnet? What? If you bitch about the hairnet, I will be upset.

Oh, and Korea, I don't like your swim policies. Your pools aren't deep ( the deepest is 1.25 meters or 4 feet). Keeping kids under 150 cm that can swim out of the deep end is not going to stop drowning. A person over 150 cm that can't swim can just as easily drown. Give a test to see if the person can swim or not. I mean if I can swim, but I am short, I should be regulated to the ankle deep pools.

Oh, and Korea, your food choices at the pools are fascinating and baffling. Sure there are cold stuff and fried stuff like fried chicken ( awesome) 2 foot long hotdogs on a stick (really awesome), ice cream, cold drinks and....cup noodles? Seriously Korea, how can you eat it? It's like blistering hot out and yet why is everyone lined up to pour boiling water into noodle cups? Wow... I was intrigued but I can't do it. Chilled Buckwheat noodles would be awesome but not hot noodles. Surprisingly though I can do the samgyetang ( chicken ginseng soup) in summer it feels dang good), but I think I would like to do bibimbap instead.

Korea, thank you for your public pools. It was fun today.

Dan

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Review: The Abomination of what they call a meal at Kofoo

Oh, Korea, you know that I love you. I love the down-home, authentic Korean food you serve. I love how you will share the whole gamut of flavors and cooking techniques in a single meal.

When you make Korean Food.

Yeah. Korean food in Korea is great. I mean really great. Sometimes other cuisines, not so much.

Korea, I would like to talk about the abomination of the meal that I had at Kofoo food. I should have suspected it as going to be bad when I discovered that the name of the place meant, "Korean Food" yet they served Italian. Korea, I would also like to state that I wanted to eat soup and rice like a good Korean, but my wife wanted Italian (in retrospect, I will try to make the dish at home because I don't need to pay 20,000 for a pasta unless it is fresh made and has gold flakes and stuff).

Anyway, so my wife ordered the vongole that was overly salty but did have nice clams (I think they over salted the water and then added more salt before service). I ordered the special pizza because it said on the menu that it was a hit and because I wasn't so hungry.

What I got was an epic fail of a pizza. It was a squid ink crust that was cute in color but didn't add any flavor. It also didn't add to the crust which was dry outside and soggy in the middle. The pizza had 4 different flavored sections. One was a classic tomato margarita (which was ok, except that greasy cheese seeped all into the crust and made the whole mess like throw up). Another section had bleu cheese and almonds and honey. Actually this wasn't so bad because it didn't have a ton of sauce so the crust was actually a tad crispy. Another section had some beef that was covered in a sticky stick balsamic and tasted like baked raisins and the last section had cheese and ribbons of sweet potato paste. The sweet potato paste was good but It made the whole thing so heavy it was impossible to eat.

Oh, I also ordered some red wine that tasted like burning.

Korea, maybe you think Kofoo Plate is a good place, I have to disagree.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In trends,

Trends: Lee Hyori's Lentils

Korea is the land if foodies and the people and the media are constantly talking about food. The focus of the food is how it is trendy and new or the health benefits it has. There has been a backlash against power bloggers as they are being criticized by the "netizens (Korean Citizens on the net and...they are very different on the net than online. It's where many Koreans let their Mr. Hyde out.). Some of these power bloggers get paid thousands of dollars to endorse a product or restaurant.

In the past many Korean people would quickly search for a restaurant by searching for an area and writing 맛집 (restaurant) and picking up the results. The problem is that power bloggers are taking up all the search terms.

It is actually quite easy to find bloggers and invite them to restaurants and starting (therefore hungry) bloggers (those with 800-2000 visitors a day) can easily be invited for a free meal or "taxi" fare (20-50,000 won). As this abuse of the net is happening, people are looking for a credible opinion on where to eat.

Surprisingly, Lee Hyori, Korea's Madonna, has emerged as the top power blogger and she has just started blogging on May 29th. You can find her blog <a href="http://blog.naver.com/hyori79lee/220012656702">here</a>. The blog has thrust her back into the spotlight and on TV shows. She has major influence on society and in the last two weeks she went on TV to talk about her diet and she told people about lentils. She even cooked the lentils for people on the program and nobody seemed very enthused. However, lentils are now on many restaurant menus and even for sale by grandmas and grandpas at the traditional market. The amount of influence this woman has in Korea is incredible since most consumption in Korea is lead by women. The good thing is that she has so much money that I don't think she can be easily swayed to endorse something she doesn't believe in. She lives on Jeju Island now and I think her blog is going to be a huge draw for Koreans to the island.

On another note, Cass is taking a hit these days because there is a rumor that their beer has a bleach smell. This is causing many bars to to stop ordering Cass and switching to other brands. Cass is denying this rumor and said it is being spread by competitors. Because there are so many complaints, liquor distributors are taking Cass back from bars and restaurants (like my bar Brew 3.14) and changing it for another brand.

Finally, on tv today was a woman making blueberry noodles. The noodles were mixed with blueberries and cooked in an anchovy broth. Hmmm... I wonder how they tasted.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

Rant: Microwaved Bagels and Other Food Crimes

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In dessert, Non-Korean

Dessert: New York Cheesecake at Cheolsan Station

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In trends,

Trends: 2014 Food Trends in Korea

1. Corn is becoming a big import as a snack and it is being imported from Thailand and Vietnam. Korea has always enjoyed boiled corn as a snack but local corn prices have been going up and much of it is being exported. Foreign corn (except from China) are seen as exotic and corn on a stick covered in Butter, cheese and spices is and grilled is becoming a popular restaurant item and street food.

2. Waffles on a stick: This is emerging as a new snack at major social hubs as a street food. The waffle is topped with whipped cream and toppings. It's just a new iteration of the waffle sandwich. I don't think this will last beyond the season.

3. The Selfie Stick: Everyone and their mother has a selfie stick these days and it is the must have social-outing accessory. The trend is that Koreans want the convenience of the stick and it is a "uniform" that lets others know they are out to have fun. The selfie stick is much more convenient than a tripod and the trend is moving away from large cameras which used to indicate a date or an outing. Plus software on phones will let people edit and embellish photos quickly. There is a move away from the need of a computer.

4. Soft-serve Ice Cream with Popcorn: the organic soft-serve ice cream trend is dead and companies like Softree know this. They decided to make a new trend instead. It is the same ice cream with popcorn embedded throughout. This is the cheese and caramel ice cream. It was just ok. The caramel popcorn worked with the ice cream. The cheese got soggy and tasted weird. Companies are trying to come up with new projects that can't quickly be copied. I don't think this trend will go mainstream.

5. Giant Meatballs on a stick: This is just like the hotdog and burger trends of the past just on a stick and the sweet/savory balls are slathered in mayo, cheese and hoisin sauce. It won't last because the pricing is too low, food cost too high, and it needs lots of labor to prep and clean up for it.

6. Sweet Potato and Cheese Crepes: this I think might actually work. The creamy cheese and creamy sweet potato works inside of the crepe. It is filling and satisfying. They are trying to find a sauce to work with it. I just don't think strawberry yogurt works. (Yuck).

7. Alcoholic Ciders: These are going mainstream and you can find them now at many bars and even convenience stores.

8. French Fries and Beer houses: Too many these days. Koreans are very value conscious and while the first places to do this are popular, new establishments are trying to offer high-margin foods and alcohol in an over-priced interior. To compete, they lower prices of beer and snacks to get people in and in the end they can't profit. Koreans are going to start wanting higher-end snacks.

9. Solbing and the Patbingsu wars: They over franchised and there are too many copycats, plus, in the immortal words of Eddard Stark, "Winter is Coming." Many of these franchises with their very expensive ice shavers (I have heard each cost upwards of 10,000 usd) will last the winter. I bet you will start seeing them trying to become restaurants and start to lose their concept by offering pastas, sandwiches, juices, beers and more.

10. The Craft Beer Wars: Craft Beers will last for a while since supply is limited plus customers are getting wise to the rebranding of Kabrew beers being passed off as the house's own beers. New brew houses are starting and they won't let others rebrand. The brewers have pride in their product and soon they will be able to stand on their own. There is more quality control that way. Big corporations like Shinsegae are getting into the game but I don't think they will fare much better than big brew pubs like O'Kim's, Platinum, and Praha which were more European style beers. The trend is for more North American-style ales for now, but I feel there is a lot of room for other regions to become popular.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Food story, Korean

Food Story: Korean Meals at Home

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Review: Where's the Tabouli at Hummus Kitchen

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, reviews

Review and Trend: Churros

Churros are so hot right now. They are last season's Bubble Tea and the season's before's lemonade. They are essentially hotteok that is a stick that is easy to eat on the go. Churros will have a thousand copycats and only one or two will survive. The survivors might even franchise.

The guys at Street Churros have the stuff to make it and let me tell you why. They are:

1. Young and hungry

2. They understand social media

3. They differentiate enough to make themselves stand out.

4. They have good sauces

5. They seem to offer lots of free "service" but they aren't really.

Let me explain.

1. Being Young and hungry makes young people want to come. Most Koreans I know all dream of owning their own place and this is a way of living vicariously through others while secretly thinking of copying them and starting their own venture. Old people want to feel young so they will also stop in as well. Plus, in Korea, a crowd always draws a crowd.

2. Social media: They are all over naver blogs and other social media. The staff poses for pictures and welcome bloggers to come.

3. Differentiation: They offer good churros but that is not enough to survive. They offer good homemade dipping sauces like the apple dip and a chocolate dip (for 1,000 won extra, which is just money in the bank). Plus they offer ice cream and churros, coffees, and teas. Their menu isn't huge but they have all the top hits you need at a cafe. They are like the 7-11 of churro shops.

4. Sauces: Korean People need sauces. If you don't have one then they will ask for one. If you have it for free, they will use lots of it (check out Costco's sauce dispensers in their cafe). If it costs money, they still want it. It's a good service thing for a VIP guest.

5. Free Service: The churros are cheap buy they have lots of addons that add value and profit to the bottom line. They add sauces for a dollar, ice cream, or coffee for a dollar extra. This idea of "friendly" add-ons adds extra profits and appreciation from guests. Korean customers love the idea of "service" and how one place will offer advantages over other shops. Plus if you can get it all at one place then it works best. Also, they have things like trash cans nearby. I know it doesn't sound like an advantage, but it is because trash cans are hard to find on the street.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Non-Korean, review

Review: Julio's Somewhat Mexican Cuisine

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In cafe, reviews

Cafe Review: Steamers Coffee Factory

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In reviews,

Review: Lamb and Cheesecake at Twiga

I was lucky enough to be invited to the South African restaurant Twiga by the owner. It is located behind the Crown Hotel and across from the Saudi Arabian Embassy. Located on the 5th floor, it doesn't seem like a restaurant at all but a dinner party at a friend's condo.

On the evening, we were greeted by the owner's very cute daughter who decided to sit at our table to play with her "My Little Pony" and draw. Normally, I would find this quite distracting but she was so cute that we didn't mind the entertainment.

The owner, Vanita, offered us menus and told us they were currently doing a bit of retooling. She said they were prepping brunch soon but for dinner she had some choice recommendations. We ordered the lamb chops that were topped with some micro greens and over risotto. The lamb chops were massive, juicy and grilled just right (27,000 won). The creamy risotto also went well with the dish and I enjoyed the bit of greenery on top for the dish was so rich. My only complaint was that it could have used a sauce or a mustard to break up the monotony of having so much meat.

We also had the sausages which were nice handmade sausages served over mashed potatoes and grilled onions. The mashed potatoes were buttery and rich and comforting with the bangers. Such a simple dish, but one that was a pleasant reminder of meals back home.

For dessert, we had a slice of their homemade amarula cheesecake. This was the star of the evening and the reason to dine here. Wow... A massive square of luscious custardy cheese that was creamy, tart, and voluminous. The passion fruit amarula liquor added a sophistication to the dessert as well. I mean it was dense yet airy and velvety. It was moist and rich and the crust was snappy as you forced the fork through it. This is one of the finest cheesecakes I have had in Korea and on par with the ones i have had in Chicago and New York City. It was also served with rich dollops of chocolate mousse.

Overall, a fine dining experience and a great place to take a loved one or for a business meeting. It is a bit hard to find so I recommend you use the mapping application.

Twiga

Geoloc: 37.53149,126.99180

Address: Seoul,Yongsan-gu Itaewondong 36-69 5th Floor

Disclosure: I was invited by restaurant and they paid for my meal but I wrote of my own volition and the opinions are my own.

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In reviews,

Review: 50/fifty: A Restaurant in Dire Need of even Half a Concept

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In Blog, thoughts

A Transition

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

In business,

Brew 3.14 Update: The Neighbors

Our small little pub in the back alleys of Ikseongdong had done well. It is filled most nights and we are planning on opening during the day. We have a good group of regulars that come frequently and business is steady. All seems right, right?

Wrong.

The neighbors complain more and more as we emerge from a quiet impossibility to a local speakeasy. We get notes from angry neighbors about the noise and the trash and about the foreigners that frequent the bar. They will complain with each other and with the other "Korean" businesses around us. They spread rumors about this and that and they paint us as an outsider to their quiet quaint neighborhood. However, I know the truth.

The spot where our bar is and the empty lot a block over and most of the areas around us are stale with notoriety. Our building used to be a house of prostitution and so was the building that used to be in the empty lot. The building in the empty lot used to be one of the most famous Giseng houses in Seoul. This was where studied and educated women skilled in "Korean" arts were housed. I remember passing the place years ago and seeing the many sedans parked outside and fierce looking drivers milling around their turf just waiting... They didn't bother me and I of course didn't bother them. Where our building used to be was a "lesser" house which I think was owned by gangsters since we have had a few run in with surly types that seemed intent on revisiting the past. I just played the stupid foreigner card and they left after a few beers (luckily they didn't like our craft beers so they didn't come back.)

Other neighbors said that our street is much quieter than it used to be in the old days. The building we were in would have cacophonous howls of "working" girls singing in sinning rooms while across the lot would have an ominous silence for what happened in those walls were meant to stay. The alley in front our our store would have stumbling drunkards reveling in the events that preceded while calculating the energy and the costs of another go. Some would contemplate so hard that they would lay passed out in the alley howling occasionally.

Across the lot, the Hanok-styled Giseng house would sit like a jewelry box, keeping all it's winded within.

However, the Giseng house's secrets would not be contained and major scandals implicated the stories house. It has now been bulldozed to the ground and will be the new Jongno district central office. However, that has been delayed for historical artifacts were found on the lot. While they are being excavated, the lot waits to be transformed from a place of promiscuity to the place of respectability.

Will our neighbors complain about that? Of course. Is there a way to get to stop? I don't know. Hopefully in time.

Dan

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, by Daniel Lee Gray

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